Siem Reap I

As part of the Indochine franchise Siem Reap I in Holland Village is destined to polarise opinions. Indochine has long been scorned by locals for their Asia-lite food yet beloved by ex-pats for offering what they see (rightly or wrongly) as a pan-asian culinary experience. Which probably explains why Siem Reap I seems to do quite nicely, thank you very much, in one of the most so-white-it-could-be-Europe parts of Singapore.

Offering a reasonable selection of fairly standard drinks (with one-for-one happy hour promotions at certain times) this roadside bar on Holland V's main stretch is a reasonable enough place to sit down and chill out on your own or meet a couple of friends after work. In terms of style and atmosphere it does not stand out, especially with an interior cloned from every other Indochine, but to be honest it has no need to. Whether outside basking in the sunshine or relaxing in the cool (yet thankfully not frigidly over air-conditioned) interior I never fail to feel comfortable.

One additional reason for this is the pitch-perfect level of customer service. Staff who are attentive to your needs yet not overbearing, who act in a manner that is respectful and courteous yet friendly enough to never come across sickeningly subserviant... there are many bars in Singapore - in the whole world, even - who might benefit from staff training at Siem Reap I!

But there is always a downside to most places and, for me, it does go back to the food. In its efforts to appeal to a broader, largely ex-pat, clientele I am inclined to side with the purists who label the food bland and uninspiring. And in a country that is itself often referred to as "Asia for beginners" that is quite a criticism. It is a shame, as many of the dishes sound astoundingly appetising on paper yet never seem to quite live up to their potential. Do not mistake me - it is by no means bad food and, if you've enjoyed a few of the one-for-one drinks, any one of the snacks or meals will probably satisfy you in a soaking-up-the-alcohol kind of way. But if you are going out especially to eat I'd recommend you give this place a miss.

Drinks: Fairly standard options, reasonably priced, happy-hour promos. 7/10

Food: Nothing bad, nothing exceptional. 6/10

Music: Not applicable.

Atmosphere: Chilled out and welcoming. 9/10

Service: Could not be faulted. 10/10

Overall: So far off the hook that it's just a speck in the distance. 80%

Siem Reap I is located at 44 Lorong Mambong, Holland Village, telephone 64685798, open from noon until midnight